A Digital Nomad & Slow Travel Guide to Salvador, Bahia, Brazil
- Ilse
- 14 hours ago
- 28 min read
I first came to Salvador in 2022 to visit a friend and immediately loved it. My friend and I rented bikes and cycled alongside the ocean in Rio Vermelho, Ondina and Barra, eating açaí on the way. At various points, there were people gathering and doing exercise outside – from capoeira to kickboxing. I literally think that it was that bike ride that convinced me to come back someday. I wanted to take in more of the cultural diversity expressed in life outside, as well as explore its many beaches.
The energy of Salvador is palpably different from other cities I have been to in Brazil. Salvador's Afro-Brazilian roots quite literally shape the way the city moves and feels through music and dance, capoeira, spirituality, religion, and supposedly the best carnival of Brazil (though people in Rio de Janeiro might disagree).
By now, I’ve lived in Salvador for about six months in total, spread across different moments of my travels – some months in Barra, some in Rio Vermelho. Long enough to move past my first romantic impressions of the city and create a routine. I have found my favourite cafés, activities to do in the weekends, and have built a similar routine each time I visited.
In this guide I share all of that and more from a slow travel and digital nomad perspective. It’s both for travellers through and for people who are considering staying a bit longer: working remotely, learning Portuguese, or perhaps going on exchange. I’ll share what it’s actually like to live in or travel to Salvador, how safe it feels in practice, and my recommendations for beaches, food and events!
Contents of this post
About Salvador & Its Afro-Brazilian roots
A note on safety as a solo female traveller
Is Salvador a safe place to travel to?
Getting around Salvador in Bahia
Uber & ride apps (especially at night)
Public transport: buses & metro
Internet & Work setup as a digital nomad in Salvador
Best neighborhoods for travellers and digital nomads in Salvador
My favourite beaches in Salvador
FAQs about Salvador travel and long stays
When is the best time to visit Salvador?
Is Salvador safe for solo or female travellers?
What are the best neighborhoods in Salvador to stay in?
How many days does Salvador need?
Do I need Portuguese in Salvador in Bahia?
Which beaches are closest to the city center?
What’s the weather like year-round?
About Salvador & Its Afro-Brazilian roots
Did you know that outside the African continent, Salvador has the largest population of people of African descent in the world? This African heritage is the foundation of the city's identity and energetic appeal.
As Brazil’s first colonial capital and a central port in the transatlantic slave trade, Salvador was shaped by centuries of forced migration, resistance, and cultural survival. Enslaved Africans brought languages, cosmologies, foods, music, and religious practices that were never fully erased. Instead, they were adapted, protected, and passed down – often under the cover of Catholic imagery, often in the margins, often in community.
Today, this history is visible everywhere. In Candomblé terreiros, in capoeira circles, in the rhythms of samba and axé, in the food sold on the street, and in everyday language and gestures. Events like Festa de Iemanjá that have their roots in Yoruba cosmology show that the practice of spirituality in Salvador is not bound to one religious group and is very much open to a wide range of people. Afro-Brazilian culture is celebrated, marketed, and consumed through music, food and events.
At the same time, Afro-Brazilian communities in Salvador continue to face systemic exclusion. Like elsewhere in Brazil, the city carries the weight of deep racial and economic inequalities that shape who has access to safety, mobility, and opportunity. As a white traveller, I move through Salvador with a different set of privileges, meaning I am often shielded from realities that are very present for others.
I’ve also read and learned from Black travel writers and bloggers who describe Salvador very differently: as a place that sparks recognition, ancestral connection, and a sense of cultural belonging. For many, being here is not just about travel, but about reconnecting with histories that were violently interrupted, and finding belonging in a city where Blackness is foundational and celebrated alongside the presence of racial inequalities and injustice.
In other words, Salvador can be challenging and unequal, while also being deeply meaningful, affirming, and powerful, depending on who you are and how you move through the world. This makes that Salvador's history and identity offer a specifically important place of learning, starting conversations, stepping back and learning from others, and listening.
A note on safety as a solo female traveller
I do not love addressing the question of safety first when talking or writing about travel destinations, but the reality is that concerns around safety do guide people's perception of a place. So, to avoid unaddressed safety concerns unfairly influencing the rest of this post, I will give you my reflections on whether it is safe to travel to Salvador, Brazil, or live there as a (foreign) digital nomad.
Note that I am writing this with my own experience in mind. I am a solo female traveller, but I am also White, speak decent Portuguese, and have various years of experience solo travelling. These are all factors that shape my experience of safety in Salvador and when travelling in general. Moreover, in Salvador specifically, I’ve lived in the neighborhoods Barra and Rio Vermelho for months, and my sense of safety has been shaped by my social circle – including friends from social classes where it’s common to own a car or regularly take Ubers rather than buses. The perception of what’s “safe” is often coloured by class, not just geography, and by upbringing and generation. This means that what feels normal to one person might feel risky to another. This is not unique to Salvador, nor Brazil.
A practical example of this is of my recent trip to Suriname. I travelled to Suriname all the way from Peru by buses and boats, crossing the Amazon rainforest and travelling on hammock boats through Brazil and French Guiana. When I had told my extended family in Suriname about my travel plans, they genuinely thought I was going to die. They have been raised with the idea that (and perhaps in a time when) land border crossings were unsafe and solo female travel is a one way ticket to horrible things happening. So, every time I called them in the months leading up to my trip, they kept suggesting that "there are also flights via Panama, you know". I did the trip and as I was regularly calling them during my journey, they seemed to slowly trust that I would not in fact be murdered and that instead the people that I met on the way were very helpful and kind.
All of that being said, with regards to safety in Salvador as a solo female traveller, please take my perspective (and positionality in this question) as just one of many. Now, let's get into it.
Is Salvador a safe place to travel to?
Safety in Salvador varies a lot by neighbourhood. Areas like Barra, Ondina and Rio Vermelho – especially along the beach and around the main streets after dark – feel alive and social, with plenty of people out late and lots of cafés, bars, and restaurants open. These areas tend to feel safer because there’s always movement and visibility. I have biked in these neighborhoods right after sunset and felt fine and regularly practiced yoga on the little balconies next to the beach in Rio Vermelho until after sunset.
Once you get away from those lively corridors and it’s dark, though, your behaviour matters more. At night, it’s usually better to take an Uber or taxi than to walk alone, especially in quieter zones. There are definitely neighbourhoods that people generally recommend avoiding – such as parts of Subúrbio Ferroviário, Porto da Barra’s less central blocks after dark, and deeper pockets of Periperi and São Caetano – where both locals and long-term residents advise caution or avoiding altogether, particularly at night and if you’re on foot.
You’ll also hear lots of practical advice from locals and expats: don’t wear anything that looks like gold jewelry, keep your belongings close on the beach, and don’t leave your phone out for too long – especially walking next to a road where people on motorbikes can easily snatch it. I’ve never personally experienced theft or robbery here, but I’ve heard these warnings repeatedly – the same kind of warnings you’d hear about São Paulo or many other cities, anywhere in the world.
Carnaval and street shows deserve a special mention here. When I was celebrating Festa da Iemanjá on the streets in Rio Vermelho, I had been instructed by a friend to not bring any phone or wallet. Your phone or wallet being robbed was a risk for anyone there, but especially for obvious 'gringos/as' like myself. While I was walking through the crowd, I felt multiple hands on my empty pockets. This situation proves that even though local insights might differ according to social class, they do matter. I also know of a friend from Salvador who had their phone stolen in Salvador and another friend of mine has experienced her car being robbed.
At the beach in Salvador, I generally take only my key if I’m by myself, or I ask someone nearby to watch my bag while I swim. I definitely do not leave my phone or wallet unattended on the sand – a rule that applies in almost every coastal destination I’ve visited, including the Netherlands. Perhaps the only exceptions to that rule in Brazil are places like Caraíva and Alter do Chão (both of which deserve their own posts). In both of these places, I actually felt relaxed enough to leave my bag with laptop and all on the beach while I swam for an hour, something I wouldn’t even do in the Netherlands.
All that said, many travellers – solo and otherwise – live, work, and explore Salvador without serious incidents. Being aware, moving with intention, listening to people who live here, and adjusting behaviour based on your surroundings make a big difference. Like with any city, visiting Salvador is not just about exploring all its beaches and sightseeing but rather about understanding the city’s social texture, and that means bearing in mind how different experiences of safety can be for different people.
How to get to Salvador in Bahia
Salvador is well connected – whether you’re coming from within Brazil or flying in from Europe. Most people arrive by plane, but buses (and even rideshares) are very realistic options too and I have experience with both. Here’s what that can look like in practice.
✈️ Flying to Salvador
The vast majority of travellers arrive via Salvador International Airport (SSA). If you’re already in Brazil, you’ll likely fly from major hubs such as São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. There are frequent domestic flights, and they’re often affordable if booked in advance.
If you’re flying from Europe, Salvador has direct connections from countries including Portugal, Spain, and the Netherlands. Direct routes change seasonally, but Salvador is one of Brazil’s better-connected northeastern cities internationally – especially due to its strong historical ties with Portugal and the Atlantic world.
🚌 Long-distance buses
Brazil’s long-distance bus network is extensive and quite comfortable, although not nearly as comfortable as the long distances buses I have taken in countries like Mexico and Peru. Note that the buses in Brazil are some of the coldest I have experienced on this continent, so bring layers (including socks) and maybe even a blanket.
If you’re coming from within Bahia or nearby states, buses are often the easiest choice. Especially from:
Morro de São Paulo
Itacaré
Aracaju
…you can easily reach Salvador by bus (sometimes combined with a boat, in the case of Morro de São Paulo).
Also for longer trajectories, buses are a good and budget-friendly option, for example to go towards Recife. I once took a 40-hour bus from São Paulo to Salvador, which sounds intense, but it worked perfectly fine (besides the fact that I got feverish halfway). The reclining seats can be quite comfortable, and if you’re slow travelling, it’s an affordable option. It is also an excellent way to get off the beaten track because you will barely see other travellers on these long distances trajectories.
On that said trip from São Paulo to Salvador, while going through Minas Gerais for example, European travellers were apparently so uncommon to encounter that I had a group of people from the bus gather around to express their surprise about the clarity of my eyes (they are blue) and my Portuguese language skills.
These long distances buses are also a perfect example of how social class influences perceptions of safety again. When I first arrived to Brazil in 2022 and asked a friend from Aracaju whether buses were safe, she had told me "no, it is better to fly". Later on my travels, I learned that buses were in fact fine, but most Brazilians that have the funds to go by plane will do so.
🚗 Ridesharing apps
I’ve also used BlaBlaCar in Brazil - for example when travelling from Praia do Forte, which doesn’t have many long-distance buses running directly through it.
Ridesharing are usually:
Faster than buses
More flexible
Surprisingly common in Brazil
Of course, always check reviews and trust your instincts - but overall, I’ve had good experiences.
🚘 Renting a car
Renting a car can make sense if you’re exploring more remote beaches or travelling along the Bahian coast before arriving in Salvador. However, if you plan to keep the car while staying in Salvador, there are a few things to consider:
Make sure your accommodation has a secure garage.
Be careful where you park overnight.
Car theft is not uncommon in Salvador.
I personally wouldn’t want to rely on street parking long-term in the city. If you’re mostly staying within neighbourhoods like Barra, Graça, Ondina or Rio Vermelho, Uber is often easier than maintaining a car.
Getting around Salvador in Bahia
Salvador is spread out. It’s not one of those cities where you casually walk everywhere – distances between neighbourhoods are larger than they look on the map, and the geography (hills, coastline, divided zones) influence how you move through the city. Plus, how you get around will depend a lot on where you’re staying.
Walking in Salvador
In neighbourhoods like Barra, Graça and parts of Rio Vermelho, you will find many people walking. During the day, I walked almost everywhere – to the nearby beaches, cafés, supermarkets, yoga, rolfing appointments, and friends’ places. These areas are relatively small, and lively and social.
At night, whether I walked depended on the situation and specific area. In Barra and Rio Vermelho, the well-lit, busy streets are generally fine when there are still people around. But once you move away from those central corridors, it’s better to take an Uber rather than walk long, quiet stretches in the dark. So, even between the apartment of a friend of mine which was only a 10 minutes walk from my place, at night I used to take an Uber because it would take me through dark and quiet streets.
Salvador is definitely not the city where I’d recommend wandering aimlessly at night in unfamiliar neighbourhoods. During the day, though, walking is one of the best ways to actually find new places and feel the energy of the city.
Uber & ride apps (especially at night)
Uber works very well in Salvador and is super affordable compared to Europe or the United States. I use it regularly at night or when moving between neighbourhoods whenever I do not feel like biking in the heat.
Most of my local friends rely heavily on Uber rather than buses, especially after dark. That reality is worth acknowledging: the ability to default to Uber is partly shaped by social class. Not everyone has that option, and as I mentioned earlier, perceptions of what is “safe” are often filtered through that privilege.
However, at night especially, for travellers Uber is usually the most comfortable and stress-free option.
Public transport: buses & metro
Salvador does have a functioning public transport system, including buses and a relatively modern metro line. The metro is clean, air-conditioned, and generally considered safe. However, it doesn’t reach the main beachfront neighbourhoods like Barra, Ondina, Rio Vermelho, and Pituba, which limits its usefulness for many travellers. It’s more practical if you’re connecting to the bus terminal, airport, or certain inland areas.
The bus system is extensive and cheap. Buses run frequently and connect most parts of the city. That said they can be crowded, require a bit of local knowledge to navigate, and they’re not usually the first choice for travellers who have alternatives.
I have taken the bus during the day without issues, but personally avoid them late at night. Again, this is partly shaped by perception and privilege – many people use them daily without incident – but as a traveller, especially if you don’t speak Portuguese fluently, Uber often feels simpler.
Bike Itaú (shared city bikes)
One of my favourite ways to get around - especially along the coast – is using the Bike Itaú bike-sharing system. You’ll see the orange bike stations along the waterfront in Barra, Ondina, and parts of Rio Vermelho, and Pituba. They’re easy to unlock via the app, and they’re very affordable. If you’re living here for a month or longer, it’s absolutely worth getting familiar with them. Honestly, I used them nearly every day to get to my volleyball training in Pituba in the morning and they were one of the reasons that I loved being in Salvador.
My practical summary
Walk during the day in lively areas.
Use Bike Itaú for short coastal distances.
Take Uber at night or between neighbourhoods.
Use buses and metro during the day if you’re comfortable navigating them.
Always adapt to the specific street, time of day, and energy of the area.
Internet & Work setup as a digital nomad in Salvador
Salvador doesn’t feel like a traditional “digital nomad hub” in the sense of having dozens of co-working cafés on every corner, but I find that internet and work setup here are very workable if you plan ahead and mix a few options.
In the short-term rental apartments I stayed in, internet was consistently good for daily work and meetings – no power cuts and enough bandwidth for Zoom calls. In general on my digital nomad journey, I have learned that relying on just one Wi-Fi connection isn’t always ideal, so I use NordVPN for security and to access certain location-protected websites and Airalo for mobile data. Having an eSIM hotspot as a backup during calls has saved me more than once when café Wi-Fi was spotty or shared bandwidth was slow.
Coworking Spaces
Salvador also has a small coworking scene, with options ranging from professional hubs to creative community spaces. I have not tried all of these out, but this is the list that I have at hand when I want to be outside of my apartment or my regular digital nomad-proof cafés:
Hub Salvador (Comércio) – A modern coworking space with strong Wi-Fi, meeting rooms, and frequent networking events. They specifically market to startups, so that gives you an idea of the energy there. This one also has a podcast studio!
A Casa Coworking (Rio Vermelho) – One of the more creative feeling, laid-back spaces, with plants around. They also have course rooms and offer daily and weekly passes.
The Co. Society (Caminho das Árvores) – Quite fancy, but offers flexible passes, meeting rooms, and good internet. Your first reservation comes with a discount if you book via their website.
Coworking Comércio (Centro) – Close to banks and services if you want a more “business district” feel.
Coletiv.me (Paseo Itaigara) – Well-set coworking with internet, meeting spaces, and flexible desks.
Regus coworking – If you want very predictable, professional infrastructure that you can book by the hour or day. They also have montly subscriptions starting from 675 BRL.
I am sure there are others, but these are the ones on my list. There are also excellent free co-working areas in places like Salvador Norte Shopping Co-working (located on the second floor L2, free to use and functioning from monday to saturday between 9am and 10pm and sundays from 12pm to 9pm), and many nomads also use libraries or public spaces when Wi-Fi is stable.
If you are not staying in an apartment, there are also various hostels that are suitable for coworking. One example that I have not been to, but that looks great is Hostel MultiCultural that has a co-working space that is open 24 hours a day.
Cafés & Work-Friendly Spots
I love working in cafés, as you might know from my blog series on the best cafes with my digital nomad rating, such as in Máncora, Peru, in Xela, Guatemala, and an upcoming neighborhood-specific for Vila Mariana, São Paulo. Especially for creative work, I prefer to be in a place where people are chatting, there is art on the wall, and baristas are excited about their coffee and cakes.
Unsurprisingly, therefore, I have a specific post dedicated to my favourite digital-nomad proof cafes in Salvador. As a bonus, Cafelier is a café that I got recommend by a local friend but have not had a chance to go to yet.
Keep in mind though that café Wi-Fi is more likely to fluctuate, especially during peak hours or with lots of customers online at once. That’s where having mobile data via a simcard ready or a VPN connection can really help during calls or interviews.
Best neighborhoods for travellers and digital nomads in Salvador
In the six months that I have spent in Salvador, I have stayed in Barra and Rio Vermelho, but have spent plenty of times in a handful of other neighborhoods. These are the areas that I would consider staying in based on my own experience and recommendations from others.
Barra
If it’s your first time in Salvador, Barra is the easy answer. You’re right by the beach, you can walk along the waterfront promenade, and you’re close to the iconic Farol da Barra. The area feels relatively safe by Salvador standards, especially during the day, and there’s movement at almost all hours.
For travellers:
Swim-friendly beaches
Good mix of restaurants and casual bars
Sunset views over the Atlantic
For digital nomads:
Reliable short-term rental options
Easy Uber access
Decent cafés nearby
Walkable for daily life
In other words, if you want beach, good infrastructure and relative comfort then Barra is one of your best options. However, the biggest disadvantages here is that it is quite busy in most areas, always. So, if you prefer a more quiet area, then this might not be your preferred neighborhood.
Ondina
Ondina sits between Barra and Rio Vermelho and feels more residential and slightly quieter. It’s less touristy, more local-middle-class, and still close to the coast. It is also easy to navigate with the bikes from Itáu.
For travellers:
Ocean views
Fewer crowds
Easy access to Barra and Rio Vermelho nightlife if you want it
For remote workers:
Apartment-style rentals often feel calmer
Good if you want proximity without the constant movement
This area is slightly more expensive and has not hostels, but there are various short term apartment listings on apps and there are hotels in this area.
Graça
Graça feels elegant and residential, it is honeslty one of my favourite areas but that might be because I mostly came here for my rolfing sessions with Marcella, who herself and whose office space has wonderful energy that calmed me down each time. Graça is not on the beach, but you’re very close to Barra and Vitória. If you’re staying longer and want something stable and less chaotic, Graça works really well, especially for digital nomads:
Calm environment
More “local living” feel
Good for focusing
For travellers, I recommend other areas instead.
Pelourinho / Centro Histórico
This is the historic (and very much rhythmically beating) heart of Salvador - colourful colonial buildings, churches, and samba parties in the streets, especially in Pelourinho. The energy in this area, however, can feel quite dense in my observation.
For travellers:
You’re immersed in history and architecture
Easy access to museums and cultural sites
Deep Afro-Brazilian cultural presence
For digital nomads:
Wi-Fi quality varies more here
Streets can feel empty at night outside main areas
Safety perception changes block by block
I personally would choose Pelourinho only for a shorter stay and not necessarily as a long-term remote work base unless you know the exact building and security setup.
Rio Vermelho
Rio Vermelho is one of my favourite neighborhoods, but probably also because I lived there the longest and got to know it best. It’s creative, slightly chaotic, full of bars, music, and people. This is where you’ll find late-night acarajé stands, live music, and a younger crowd.
For travellers:
Strong local culture
Nightlife and great food culture
Good restaurants
For digital nomads:
Solid apartment options
Walkable streets
Good café density and close to the bikes
If you want energy and community and don’t mind noise, Rio Vermelho is a strong choice. If you’re sensitive to sound, choose your street carefully. I stayed about 10 minutes walking from the beach in a super quiet area, which was nice when I was inside but also meant I always took an Uber home at night.
Pituba
Pituba feels more modern and middle-class, definitely much less touristy and further away from most sightseeing places and the most lively beaches.
For digital nomads:
Good infrastructure
More business-oriented
Reliable services
If you’re staying for a month or longer then Pituba can make sense, for travellers I would not recommend per se.
To summarize
If I were choosing again:
First time in Salvador? → Barra
Want nightlife + culture + movement? → Rio Vermelho
Longer-term, calmer stay, specifically as a a digital nomad? → Graça, Ondina or Pituba
Short cultural immersion? → Pelourinho (carefully chosen accommodation)
Salvador has a lot of different energies, which is part of why I like it so much. But this also that your experience of the city will shift dramatically depending on where your accommodation is, so choose carefully and if the energy of a place does not match yours then don't be afraid to change locations.
My favourite beaches in Salvador
I’ll write a separate deep dive on Salvador’s beaches, because there are many. But if you’re staying in the city and want three that I personally always return to, these are the ones.
Praia da Paciência (Rio Vermelho)
Since I lived in Rio Vermelho, Praia da Paciência is the one I went to the most. It small, incredibly busy on the weekends and has a lot of youth. There is always music, people are dancing, chatting, I played volleyball here and there is people playing futevôlei in the sand. It is very reflective of the energy of Rio Vermelho.
On important note is to be careful with the tide here - when it’s rough, the current can get strong. Overall, it is definitely one of the more dynamic city beaches if you like movement and people around you.
Praia de Ondina
Praia de Ondina is where I go when I want to float rather than play in the waves. It’s generally quieter than the main praias in Barra or Rio Vermelho, and most of the time the water is calm enough to just lie back and drift. There’s also a good açaí spot nearby (which, honestly, completes the experience because I looove açaí).
Praia da Preguiça (near MAM)
This one feels like a small secret. Praia da Preguiça sits near Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia (MAM), and you typically reach it by boat. Another floating beach, so don't go here if you like waves.
Things to do in Salvador
Museums & Cinemas
If you want to understand Salvador beyond beach time, start with the museums. The Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia (MAM) is one of my favourites. It hosts contemporary art and occasionally has live music events in the courtyard. The Museu Afro-Brasileiro gives important historical contex on Salvador’s Afro-Brazilian roots. If you’re curious about how serious Carnaval culture is here, the Casa do Carnaval da Bahia explains the political, musical and social layers behind it.
For Brazilian films and cultural programming, check what’s playing at Espaço Itaú de Cinema Glauber Rocha. They regularly screen Brazilian productions and festival films. Tickets are usually booked directly through the cinema’s website or Brazilian platforms like Ingresso.com.
Music & Nightlife
You don’t really “go out” in Salvador in the same way you might in São Paulo. It’s much more street-based with spontaneous live samba popping up outside of bars in Pelourinho, blocking entire streets. In Rio Vermelho, bars spill onto the streets as well. If you want something casual with pool tables, there is one in Rua João Gomes in Rio Vermelho but I forgot the name.
For concerts and larger shows, another of the platforms you can browse for tickets is Sympla. In my experience TicketSwap is not used much in Brazil although sometimes you can find resales there, but honestly, the best way to know what’s happening is to have local friends who follow the right Instagram pages. That’s how I usually find out about things: someone sends a link at 5pm for something happening at 8pm.
Beach, Sports & Movement
Besides the beaches that I have mentioned earlier, a lot of people swim in Praia do Porto da Barra, which is very social and busy on weekend days. This is one of the beaches where you will definitely be offered a particular type of cheese on a stick and it is very important that you try that (if you eat cheese). It is delicious! The water is calm here so it is nice to swim and in the early morning you will see various swimming clubs.
For surfing, you’ll see longboarders at Porto da Barra on the right day. There’s also surf at Praia do Farol da Barra when conditions allow, though the waves can be quick. A more consistent surf spot is Jaguaribe, which is a bit more North in the city and offers consistent waves. There are various surf schools there and surf rentals. If you are more advanced, there are even stronger waves at Praia do Flamengo.
If you stay longer, I recommend finding groups offering beach volleyball and futevôlei. Some operate informally, some through clubs. A Salvadorian woman that I met in Caraíva once forwarded me the contact of volleyball trainer Ailton and I ended up training with their group every morning for a while, I made various friends through that training and found a group to play with in the evenings!
You can also take a capoeira class – Salvador is one of the most important places for it. Or join a walking tour to understand the city’s layered history.
Food, restaurants and eating in Salvador
Food in Salvador is very flavorful and conists mostly of street food, lunch counters, plastic chairs, coconut vendors. If you have to try one thing, it is acarajé. Acarajé is a deep-fried black-eyed pea fritter split open and filled with vatapá, salad, and often shrimp. It’s spicy, filling, and rooted in Afro-Brazilian tradition. Two of the most famous and widely loved spots are both in Rio Vermelho:
Some blogs list Acarajé da Cira as the best one, which is located in Itapuã. I have never tried tht one, but I recommend you trying as many as you can handle during your stay (for me one or two a week was the max).
For a sit-down meal, try moqueca. Bahian moqueca is made with dendê oil and coconut milk, usually with fish or seafood, and comes bubbling in a clay pot with rice, farofa, and pirão. For weekday lunch, look for a PF (prato feito). It literally means “plate made.” Usually rice, beans, salad, protein, maybe farofa. Often it goes per kilo and is very affordable.
To drink:
Guaraná as soda (look for the version that is from Brazil and not owned by Coca Cola)
Fresh coconut water along the coast (take your own straw or fill your bottle)
Açaí, which I take very seriously haha. A long-term project of mine is gathering my favourite açaí places across the world. That’s how much I love it. Salvador has solid options, especially around Ondina and Rio Vermelho.
Health and practical tips
Here come some practical travel tips for travelling in general, specifically useful for first-time travellers, as well as Salvador specific tips.
Vaccinations, mosquitoes, sunscreen, and water
Brazil does not require special vaccinations to enter most regions, but it’s generally recommended to be up to date on routine vaccines. Depending on where else you’re travelling in Brazil, some people choose to get the yellow fever vaccine.
Mosquitoes are present, especially in hotter and more humid months. In Salvador I have stayed both in the dry and in the wet season and in my experience mosquitoes were not super present, but it also depends on the area where you are staying. Having air conditioning or a fan in your room will get you a long way during the night. Dengue exists in Salvador, so it is worth taking that seriously. I also recently learned that there is a vaccine out for Dengue, but only for people who have already had it once.
Sunscreen on the other hand is definitely not optional. The UV index is high year-round (think 11, 12 and 13!!). Even on cloudy days and the UV really starts at 8am or so. So please use sunscreen even if you only go out for a short walk to the market.
Tap water is not typically consumed directly. Most people drink filtered or bottled water. Short-term rentals often have a filter installed. If not, buy large water containers from the supermarket.
Pharmacies & Healthcare
Pharmacies are everywhere and very accessible. Many medications that require prescriptions in Europe are available over the counter in Brazil, but it’s still wise to travel with what you regularly use.
Private healthcare in Brazil is generally good quality. If you need to see a doctor, private clinics are usually the fastest route and they are included in most travel insurances from Europe. Always make sure you have travel insurance that covers Brazil and that covers the amount of time you are away. This is especially important to check for longterm travellers that are out of their home country for a consecutive period of longer than 180 days since most insurances run up to that time.
Money & Payments
Brazil runs mostly on cards and Pix, although stands that sell coconut water, street food and drinks usually also offer cash. Not so relevant in Salvador as in my memory the metro in Salvador accepts card, but in São Paulo you need cash (in small change) at the metro to buy tickets unless you have the ticket app.
If you do not know what Pix is, you will wish you had it within days of arriving to Salvador. Pix is the Brazilian instant payment system. Locals use it for everything. As a traveller, you’ll mostly use a debit or credit card, which works almost everywhere, including small cafés and beach kiosks. But do check if you can pay by card beforehand because I have been in places and gotten a full meal to only realize later that I could only pay with Pix and had to ask help from a local friend... For online orders, including bustickets, you will also often need a Pix. So, if you have a local friend it would be good to have some credit with them so they can pay certain things for you.
Small detail, if you are reading through this guide sentence for sentence: in supermarkets they will ask you first if you have a 'club' or subscription to the supermarket, then they will ask you if you want the 'CPF na nota'. CPF is another number that you will wish you had (and that is actually surprisingly easy to get!). It is the Brazilian tax paying number. So in the supermarket, you can just say no.
Safety basics
I have already written a deeper safety reflection earlier in this post, so this is just the practical things repeated one more time:
Don’t display expensive (looking) jewellery. Anything that looks gold you should not be wearing.
Avoid using your phone near busy roads where someone on a motorbike could grab it.
If you can, avoid bringing your phone to street festivals such as Festa da Iemanjá or Carnaval, or wear it underneath your clothes.
Take Uber at night instead of walking long, empty streets.
On the beach, don’t leave valuables unattended.
This is advice locals give each other too and is relevant in various places in Brazil and the world more generally, but specifically in Salvador.
Weather & Best time to visit
Salvador is hot and humid most of the year. Rain tends to be heavier between April and July, though showers can happen anytime. Even in rainy season, it’s rarely cold. You’ll still want beach clothes. Light, natural, and breathable fabrics help, as well as accepting that you will sweat. Oh and especially if you are from Europe or the United States: Brazilians shower a LOT in comparison, as in multiple times a day. Better to adopt this habit because Europeans are apparently known to Brazilians to smell bad.
Portuguese & Communication
Unlike more international cities like São Paulo, in Salvador English is not widely spoken outside hotels and higher-end restaurants. Basic Portuguese makes a big difference and good Portuguese will make you many friends.
At the very very least, learn basic expressions such as:
Bom dia (good morning)
Boa tarde (good afternoon)
Boa noite (good night)
Obrigada / Obrigado (thank you, first version is when you identify as a woman, second when you identify as a man, if you identify as neither you can for example use 'valeu')
Por favor (please)
Brazilian Portuguese is warm and expressive and especially in Salvador I have found that people appreciate the effort and are happily surprised when you do speak Portuguese. It really is an entry point for making connections!
SIM Cards & Connectivity
If you haven’t arranged an eSIM in advance, you can buy a local SIM card in shopping centres or phone stores. Passport is required and be careful not to get scammed, even in official stores. They will for example try to sell you the most expensive plan even if you indicate that you do not need that.
As mentioned in the work section, I usually use Airalo as a backup hotspot. Having mobile data means you’re never fully dependent on café Wi-Fi.
FAQs about Salvador travel and long stays
When is the best time to visit Salvador?
Salvador is warm year-round. There isn’t really a “bad” season, but there are trade-offs. April to July tends to be rainier, though it rarely rains all day. You might get heavy tropical showers followed by sun. December to March is hotter, busier, and more expensive - especially around Carnaval. If you want a balance of good weather and fewer crowds, shoulder months like September to November are the best months to go.
Is Salvador safe for solo or female travellers?
This depends on how you move through the city. Salvador is not a risk-free destination, but it’s also not a place where something will automatically happen to you. Awareness, neighbourhood choice, time of day and your own experience as a traveller all matter. As a solo female traveller, I have never felt unsafe. As I’ve written earlier, my experience as a White traveller is specific and shaped by privilege. I also had local friends, which changes how you navigate a place. Practical things help such as taking Ubers at night, avoiding wearing expensive looking jewelry, being mindful with your phone near busy roads and bus stops, and choosing accommodation in well-located neighbourhoods.
What are the best neighborhoods in Salvador to stay in?
For most travellers and digital nomads, the most practical neighbourhoods are:
Barra
Rio Vermelho
Ondina
Graça
Barra is the easiest for beach access and walkability. Rio Vermelho has nightlife and energy. Graça and Ondina are calmer and more residential. Pelourinho is beautiful but more complex logistically, especially at night.
How many days does Salvador need?
As with many places, I am sure you can see the highlights in 3 to 4 days. However, I always recommending spending some more time to really feel the energy of the place and allowing yourself to be guided by random things happening during the day. Especially if you want to visit museums, explore different neighbourhoods, take a capoeira class or walking tour, and spend some good hours on the beach, I recommend at least 5 to 7 days to feel more relaxed.
Do I need Portuguese?
You don’t need Portuguese to survive, but it makes a big difference, especially in Salvador and the Northeast of Brazil in general. English is not widely spoken outside hotels and more upscale establishments. Even basic Portuguese changes the tone of interactions and makes daily life much smoother. For longer stays, I would strongly recommend learning at least conversational basics.
Which beaches are closest to the city center?
If you’re staying centrally (Barra, Ondina, Rio Vermelho), your closest options are:
Praia do Porto da Barra
Praia da Paciência
Praia de Ondina
All are within walking distance depending on your exact location. For more open beaches with stronger surf, the most consistent surf spot is Jaguaribe.
What’s the weather like year-round?
Hot and humid for sure haha. Temperatures are generally warm throughout the year, often between the mid-20s to low-30s °C (mid-70s to high-80s °F). Even in the rainier months, it rarely gets cold. You’ll mostly wear light clothes year-round.
Can you drink the tap water in Salvador, Brazil?
Tap water is not typically consumed directly. Most people drink filtered or bottled water. Short-term rentals often have a filter installed. If not, buy large water containers from the supermarket. If you’re staying longer, having a proper water filter in your apartment makes life easier and reduces plastic waste. I can also really recommend getting a filter water bottle, I use a filterwater bottle from Grayl and have drunk water from rivers without getting sick, although I mostly use it at airports and bus stations to avoid buying bottles.
Final thoughts on Salvador de Bahía
I’ve come back to Salvador more than once, which probably says more than any neatly structured conclusion could. Salvador is a city that will attract your attention. Please keep in mind that how you experience Salvador is shaped by who you are, where you stay, who you meet, and how open you are to experiencing its diversity in energies.
Salvador, and Bahia in general, is a city where I have found inspiration, warmth, creativity and openness from all the people that I have met. I hope you come with curiosity, openness and a willingness to let this city move you the way it has moved me – literally, as Salvador is a city that dances! Enjoy!
Thank you for reading and if you have any other questions or information that I missed that could help fellow travellers, please let me know via Instagram! I would also love to hear how you have experienced Salvador de Bahía!
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