Travelling French Guiana Overland: From Macapá (Brazil) to Suriname in 48 Hours
- Ilse
- 5 hours ago
- 20 min read
This is the final leg of my journey crossing the Amazon Rainforest by bus and boat. If this is the first post you are reading, to catch you up: I started in Yurimaguas, Peru – although strictly from the Peruvian coast and travelling through Tarapoto to get to Yurimaguas –, then crossed the three-country border with Colombia and Brazil, I spent three nights sleeping in a hammock on the slow boat from Tabatinga to Manaus, stayed in the Caribbean of the Amazon Alter do Chão longer than planned, before I took my final set of overnight boats from Santarém to Macapá.
In this post, I will take you through how to get from Macapá to Brazilian border town Oiapoque and then crossing French Guiana to Suriname. So, if you are looking for a practical guide on:
Macapá to Oiapoque bus
Brazil to French Guiana border crossing
How to cross French Guiana overland
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni ferry to Suriname
Albina to Paramaribo taxi
Suriname visa at the land border
– this post covers all of it and it includes some of my personal stories of this somewhat chaotic journey.
This stretch took me roughly 48 hours in total, which was much longer than expected, but absolutely doable without flying.
Other posts in the series 'Crossing the Amazon Rainforest by Boat and over Land'
Crossing the Amazon Rainforest by Boat (overview post from Peru to Suriname)
How to travel by boat from Yurimaguas to Iquitos, Peru
From Iquitos to Santa Rosa by Boat - Crossing the Amazon Rainforest in Peru
How to travel from Tabatinga to Manaus with the slow boat
Travel by boat from Manaus (AM) to Santarém (PA) to Macapá (AP), Brazil
If they are not linked yet, that means I am still writing them. I will publish them in February and March in 2026. Sign up for my newsletter to get notified!
About French Guiana
French Guiana is an overseas department of France located in South America. French Guiana has a complex and often misunderstood history. Originally inhabited by Indigenous peoples such as the Kali’na and Wayampi, it became a French colony in the 17th century and later one of France’s most notorious penal colony locations, with convicts sent to places like Devil’s Island. In 1946, it became an overseas department of France, meaning it is legally part of the French Republic and the European Union.
Today, it uses the euro, applies Schengen rules, and follows French law, yet it faces very different realities from mainland France. The economy relies heavily on public sector employment and the Guiana Space Centre near Kourou, which is a major European space launch site. At the same time, unemployment and the cost of living are significantly higher than in mainland France, and social tensions around inequality, migration, and infrastructure are ongoing topics in local politics.
Culturally, French Guiana is incredibly diverse, shaped by Indigenous communities, descendants of enslaved Africans, Creole populations, Brazilian and Surinamese migrants, Hmong communities, and metropolitan French residents. This means that when you travel through you will hear a variety of languages, including French, Portuguese, Dutch, and Sranan Tongo. The result is a society that looks European on paper, but in practice is deeply Amazonian in geography, demographics, and culture(s).
Why travel to or through French Guiana?
French Guiana is not a place most people accidentally end up in. It is rarely marketed, rarely talked about, and often reduced to “that place with the space centre” or “that former colony of France in South America.” Various Latin American people whom I told about my plan to travel the Amazon rainforest by bus and boat all the way from Peru to Suriname, had never even heard of Suriname nor French Guiana.
And yet, travelling through French Guiana, you will immediately feel fascinated by the mix of cultures and infrastructure. People cross daily for work, for trade, for family – speaking Portuguese, French, Dutch, Sranan Tongo, and English. The difference between the roads in Brazil and French Guiana is huge – much bigger than the often joked about Dutch-Belgian border amongst Western Europeans.
I travelled through French Guiana not so much to visit the country itself, but rather in my commitment to the overland journey from Peru to Suriname. I had already decided to cross the Amazon without flying, and French Guiana was simply en route. Financially, it did not make much sense – French Guiana is expensive, and transport is slow and unpredictable unless you rent a car or hitch hike. But logistically, it opens interesting possibilities also for the ones travelling from elsewhere. If you are flying from Europe to the Guianas (typically around 600 EUR) or northern Brazil, flights to Cayenne can sometimes be significantly cheaper than flights to Paramaribo (typically around 1000 EUR retour). From there, you can move overland into Suriname or Brazil within a day.
Even passing through quickly, I found it fascinating, and I definitely want to come back someday and spend more time there. The contrast between European administrative structures and dense Amazon rainforest, between euro prices and tropical humidity, between French road infrastructure and roadside market stalls creates a strange but compelling in-between world.
If you have the time to stay longer, perhaps through finding a long stay Couchsurfing address or exchange program, it also seemed as if there are beautiful tours through the rainforest there. Moreover, Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni is a popular spot for sailboats to stop.
How to get from Macapá, AP to Oiapoque, BR
From Macapá I travelled to the most northern city in Brazil, Oiapoque, which borders French Guiana. There are three options to get from Macapá to Oiapoque and I have considered all of them, especially when it turned out the bus I initially wanted to take was fully booked, meaning I would have to stay a full night in Macapá after arriving in Santana (in the end I was magically able to rebook my boat to arrive a day later).
1. Bus between Macapá and Oiapoque
From Macapá I travelled to the most northern city in Brazil, Oiapoque, per night bus for 260 BRL. All buses go overnight and there is only bus company. I booked my tickets via the Brazilian platform Buson with my friend's Pix, but I later realized that you can also buy a ticket via Busbud.
Beforehand, I had only found blogs saying they took a shuttle and had reached out to one contact, but they charged 500 BRL for the shuttle at night or 400 BRL the next morning. So, I was very happy with my bus ticket for 260 BRL. Note that I succeeded in booking this ticket with Pix because I was asked to fill out a CPF with my credit card details, so a Brazilian friend of mine did the booking and I paid her back in cash. Make sure you check this in time so you can come up with a solution without stress, or book via Busbud where I am pretty sure you can pay with credit card.
I definitely did experience some stress in this process. The bus that I had originally planned to take based on my booked boat ticket from Santarém to Santana (from which you take a taxi to Macapá) sold out in front of my eyes as I tried to book the last available seat. I had not expected bus tickets to book out two days in advance but I suspect it also had to do with the holiday season. I was bummed at first and considered sleeping at the bus station to take the bus a day later or even taking the (much more expensive) shuttle. Luckily, however, I decided to reach out the boat company first and was able to change my boat departure day to one day later and right away booked a bus ticket for the following night.
The buses from Macapá to Oiapoque only go at night, either at 7pm or 10pm. Since I had already anticipated that my boat would probably be delayed and the taxi from Santana to Macapá would take some time, I had booked the 10pm one. I arrived at the bus station at 8pm, so that was definitely the right decision.
There are no places to get food at the bus station at that hour, so make sure you have enough food with you for the night and morning. We arrived to Oiapoque around 8am and at that bus station there are some options for food, but I did not find any vegetarian ones.
2. Shuttle between Macapá and Oiapoque
Private shuttles run between Macapá and Oiapoque and cost approximately 400–500 BRL depending on time of day and negotiation. They are faster and more flexible and so definitely easier and tempting, but significantly more expensive. Plus, I personally find that nightbuses are actually more comfortable to sleep in than cars or vans that do not have similarly declineable seats.
3. Hitch hiking in French Guiana
It is possible to hitch hike this route, I know that @hitchhikingdiary on Instagram has done it as well as another friend I met on the way. They noted that traffic is limited but consistent enough during the day. This means that you have to anticipate wait times from several hours just in case. If you choose this option, start early and only wait in safe, visible areas.
Border crossing French Guiana (Oiapoque - Saint-Georges)
From the Oiapoque bus station, I accepted a taxi for around 60 BRL to the border. The drive is about 15 minutes total, including stopping at the Brazilian border post to stamp you out.
This is important: You have to make sure you stamp your passport upon leaving Brazil. It is easy to miss as it is not a mandatory border post for people who regularly travel between the countries for work. Also make sure you negotiate that the taxi takes you to the French Guianese border post as well, otherwise they may charge extra later.
French Guiana is part of the Schengen agreement. With my Dutch passport, I did not need a visa, nor did I have to fill out any form before entering. However, always check requirements for your nationality before travelling.
I also recommend getting an e-sim beforehand. Mobile data becomes significantly more expensive once you enter French Guiana, as you are technically in the EU. Having an eSIM prepared in advance makes coordinating transport much easier, as well translations if you do not speak one of the languages at the border, which include French and Portuguese.
Final important note, there were no obvious toilet facilities at the border posts and the one inside was closed for some reason (also when I asked), so plan accordingly. Since it is a police and border control station, they are stricter with letting you use their facilities inside the building.
Transportation in French Guiana
To my knowledge, there are four ways to travel through French Guiana: hitch hiking, navettes (shared taxis), intercity buses, or renting a car. The intercity buses only go between Cayenne and Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, so if you are entering from Brazil you definitely rely on a different mode of transport when trying to get to Cayenne.
I had planned to hitch hike from the border, as it is an excellent waiting spot for cars, but I chickened out and asked at the police station how to get a 'navette' (shared taxi) to Cayenne. They called drivers and eventually one came to pick me up with a few others that had gathered by that time.
This is also the most common option as these shared taxis that go between Saint George and Cayenne, and Cayenne and Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni. They will likely not be your fastest option and are quite expensive. From Saint-George to Cayenne I paid 50 EUR and from Cayenne to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni another 50 EUR.
If you have the guts and time (unlike me), you can try hitch hiking. Or alternatively, renting a car will be the most predictable option. If you go with multiple people and want to hang out in French Guiana for a bit, I would definitely consider this because it was beautiful to drive through the country. I wish I would have been able to do it at my own pace. Unfortunately, I was also very tired and completely forgot to take any photos of the road, so you are just going to have to take my word for it.
It is good to keep in mind that French Guiana in general is expensive, especially in comparison to most other Latin American countries. Obviously, the shared taxis to Cayenne (which is only halfway through) and frocosting nearly 50 EUR is already very telling. To give you another idea, the veggie wrap at the roadside restaurant cost me 9 EUR. So if you can, bring snacks.
Another thing to remember when travelling through French Guiana, at least if your experience is anything like mine: everything takes longer than expected. Even with adding a good 20% to the travel time on Google Maps, I was on the low side of how much later I arrived.
Finally, it is also good to keep in mind that French Guiana is super expensive, especially in comparison to most other Latin American countries. Obviously, the shuttle to Cayenne (which is only halfway through) costing nearly 50 EUR is already very telling. To give you another idea, the veggie wrap at the roadside restaurant cost me 9 EUR. So if you can, bring snacks.
French border to Saint-Georges and Saint-Georges to Cayenne
With the navette, we first drove to Saint-Georges, where I withdrew euros at an ATM. The navette to Cayenne costs anything between 40 and 50 EUR and you cannot pay by card.
Then we waited for literal hours before heading to Cayenne – despite the navette being full. Everyone in the navette was confused and towards the end slightly irritated with the driver as it was unclear why we had to wait so long. At some point, I overheard something on the phone about police and waiting until they had left. When we had finally started driving, we drove in circles while the driver was on the phone again. It all sounded suspicious, but when we encountered a police checkpoint an hour into the drive, there was no issue.
One girl, however, was unable to show any identification. She was Brazilian and had lost her passport, but had also not brought any other document or photo. This caused a delay from an hour and we eventually had to leave her there. Eventually, from the border near Saint-Georges, it took me seven hours to reach Cayenne – a drive that is supposed to take four.
The road itself was absolutely gorgeous. Of all the rainforest roads I have travelled – including Peru and in Amapá – this was the most beautiful. The road itself had clearly been managed by France and is very well sustained, but the most amazing were the trees. Somehow they looked higher and once again on this journey crossing the Amazon rainforest, just looking at the edge of the forest burst open my imagination of all the life that lived behind what my eyes could see.
There is definitely little traffic here so if you do decide to hitch hike, make sure you only get out at a point that is safe to wait at – so for example a border crossing, a police checkpoint, or a restaurant. We stopped after some hours at a roadside restaurant for some lunch and drinks. This is the first place I got proper food since getting off the boat in Santana the night before. I bought a veggie wrap for 9 EUR – European prices, ai, but it was delicious!
From the border crossing near Saint George, it took me seven hours (!!!) to get to Cayenne. That drive is supposed to take a maximum of four hours, but with all the delays we arrived at 5pm. In Cayenne, even though the taxi driver knew I was meant to get to Paramaribo, Suriname that night still, he dropped a bunch of people off at their house in Cayenne before he got me onto the next navette.
While during the day, you will arrive in Cayenne at a central navette point, since we were so late and there were not a lot of navettes still going to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, the driver had arranged for a friend to take me. The driver was receiving a lot of voice notes from that friend from which I overheard French statements such as ‘too late to go to Saint-Laurent’ and ‘not possible to cross the river at this hour’.
Yet, as the driver was finally getting stressed about his time management, I was able to completely let it go. It was his responsibility now to get me there in time and if there is anything that I had learned on this trip it was that things will always work out and there is no use in stressing about them.
Cayenne to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni
I got into the car of the driver's friend, which was the same kind of van. With both the driver to Cayenne and this new driver, I was able to speak Portuguese. However, within 15 minutes I was transferred to the driver's brother's regular car. That brother spoke only French but I quickly found out that he spoke better Dutch than I spoke French because his mom is from Suriname!
There were already two Brazilians in that car who seemed annoyed that we were making another stop, suggesting that they have had a similarly delayed journey as I had had thus far. And it was definitely not the last stop we made...
At some point, we picked up one more traveler who managed to get himself into the small space of one of the two seats in the back – the car was definitely not meant to be a seven-seater. Then, at the side of a highway, we picked up a woman, her child and another huge suitcase. While the Brazilians were flabbergasted at how many people the driver was trying to get into this tiny car and yet another stop, I was just laughing. Because of all our bags and the incredibly small luggage space (with the two extra seats that surely did not belong in the original design of this car) the woman took her son on her lap.
We stopped in a small village to get some dinner at a street stand where I bought fried bananas and some cake. The woman was a Brazilian missionary and her son spoke fluent Portuguese and French, and told me that he had taught himself Spanish – he was 11 years old!
On the way to Saint Laurent, as it was slowly getting dark, I started to realize that the plan to get to Suriname was getting increasingly less feasible that day. I had already not wanted to do the river crossing in the dark out of woman-travelling-alone-safety reasons, but over text with my dad in Paramaribo I also heard that the river was wilder at night. Plus, the federal police office would be closed and so I would have to ‘illegally’ enter Suriname and then stamp my passport in Paramaribo the next day…
After weeks on this trip of trying to settle into divine timing and trusting that things will work out, I finally felt calm. When I looked for hostels and hotels in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, I saw that they were way above my budget. So, I texted two couch surfers in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni and luckily one of them answered within an hour.
It was a French woman who was living in the middle of the rainforest a few kilometers outside of Saint-Laurent with her husband and two kids. They only had a hammock spot to offer. Thankfully, because of my slow boat adventure, my hammock came in handy once again. I spent the night with them, more on that later, and continued the very last bit of my journey without stress the next morning.
Cayenne
Cayenne is the capital of French Guiana and the main transport hub, this is also where the main airport in French Guiana is located. During the day, navettes arrive at a central point. Because we arrived late, my driver arranged a friend of his to continue my journey towards Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni.
If you do decide to stay in Cayenne, things to do there include visiting the market, exploring the colonial centre, or booking a trip to the Guiana Space Centre. Below I put a link to one of the few car rental platforms that I found that has cars in French Guiana, although you might be able to find local options when you are there.
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni is the border town with Suriname. It has a layered colonial history and was once a French penal colony town. Like I wrote earlier, by the time I arrived, crossing into Suriname that same evening was no longer realistic. I had already decided I did not want to do the river crossing in the dark.
I texted two Couchsurfing hosts and luckily one replied. She lived a few kilometers outside of Saint-Laurent in the rainforest with her husband and two kids and offered me a hammock spot, which brings me to the next section...
Where to sleep in French Guiana
Accommodation in French Guiana is one of the main things that reminds you that you are technically in France. Prices are closer to mainland Europe than to Brazil or Suriname, and budget options are limited, I for example did not find any listings on Hostelworld.
If you want the most options, Cayenne is your safest bet. As the capital and main transport hub, it has a small range of guesthouses and hotels, and a few more affordable places if you book in advance. You can compare options here. Prices are noticeably higher than in neighboring countries, so if you are travelling on a budget, booking early helps.
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, the border town with Suriname, has fewer choices but can be a practical overnight stop if you are planning to cross the river the next morning. You can check availability for hotels in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni here. It is a small town with a layered colonial history, and staying near the centre makes it easier to reach the ferry or boat crossing early in the day.
During my journey, I ended up Couchsurfing a few kilometers outside of Saint-Laurent. By the time I arrived, my plan to reach Suriname the same evening had clearly become unrealistic. I texted two hosts, and one replied within an hour. She lived in the rainforest with her husband and two children and offered me a hammock spot on their veranda. After weeks of travelling by boat with my hammock, it felt strangely full circle to hang it one more time, this time surrounded by dense forest and the sound of rain instead of river engines.
If you are open to it, Couchsurfing can be a meaningful and affordable way to experience French Guiana beyond the main road.
Otherwise, expect European-level accommodation prices and plan your route accordingly – especially if you want to avoid arriving late and having limited options.
If you prefer more independence, renting a car and staying slightly outside city centres can also open up more rural guesthouse options.
How to get from Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, French Guiana to Albina, Suriname
The border between French Guiana and Suriname is the Maroni River. There is no bridge, so crossing is done by boat. There are two options.
The first option is to take one of the small wooden boats, often referred to locally as “bootmannetjes.” These leave whenever they are full and operate throughout the day. The crossing takes around 10 minutes and costs approximately 5 EUR per person. These boats are informal but widely used by locals.
The second option is the official ferry. It generally operates between 8am and 6pm and costs 4.20 EUR per person. Cars can be transported for an additional fee. The main advantage of the ferry is that the French border police are located directly at the ferry terminal, making the exit process straightforward and organized.
I arrived at the ferry terminal around 7:30am. Even though I had not received a physical entry stamp when entering French Guiana, the border police still recorded my passport details before departure. Make sure you go to the police office before boarding any boat to avoid problems later. Because I arrived before the ticket counter opened, but the ferry was already going, the people that were waiting as well and I got to take the ferry for free. They even saved the entire car fee! Not sure if this always happens or that the ferry employee was just exceptionally friendly that day, but worth a try if you plan to leave early anyway.
The river crossing itself is short and calm in normal conditions, but I personally chose not to attempt it after dark. If you plan to cross late in the day, double-check the last departure times or opt for the "bootmannetjes".
Visa for Suriname
To enter Suriname, you need to apply for a visa in advance, even with a Dutch passport. The process is relatively straightforward but must be completed before arrival. In addition, you must fill out the online immigration form within seven days prior to entering the country and keep the QR code accessible on your phone.
I will go into more detail about the visa process, required documents, and current fees in my upcoming Suriname Travel Guide - subscribe to my newsletter to be notified when it is up!
How to get from Albina to Paramaribo
Shared taxis from Albina to Paramaribo cost around 25 EUR and take just over two hours.
Only officially registered taxi drivers are allowed inside the immigration area, which adds a layer of safety. I accepted a taxi for 25 EUR. The van was surprisingly luxurious, and especially after three weeks of river boats and long road journeys, it felt like first class. The driver was super nice, I was the only one in the van but since he had to pick up his sister to drive to school we left right away. The ride took about two hours and I occasionally had cell service on the way to update my family about my arrival time. The driver dropped me off in the street of my family's house.
The moment I got in the taxi, I felt an overwhelming sense of happiness. I had crossed the Amazon rainforest by land and river and reached my final destination without flying. Altogether a much longer and chaotic journey than I had anticipated, but so much fun and I would do it again any time!
FAQs
What currency do you need in French Guiana and Suriname? And are there ATM fees?
French Guiana uses the euro. There are ATMs in Saint-Georges and Cayenne. Suriname uses the Surinamese dollar. I did not take out money as I could pay by card everywhere. My family told me that depending on your card it can be better to take EUR and exchange them officially at one of the exchange offices.
Do you need a visa for French Guiana and Suriname?
To leave Brazil, you need to remember to get an exit stamp. When you enter French Guiana as a EU citizen or with a European passport, you will not need a visa and you will not even receive a stamp as French Guiana applies Schengen rules. They will write down your passport and entry information, so obviously do make sure to 'stamp' in and out. For other passports, it is best to check your own state's regulations.
For Suriname, you do need a visa, even with a Dutch passport. With my Dutch passport, the application process was easy and I only needed to show screenshots at the border. Additionally, you must complete the immigration form within seven days prior to arrival and screenshot the QR code. But check well in advance for other passports!
Is French Guiana safe to travel to?
Although transport can be informal and delayed in French Guiana, I did not experience direct safety issues. We passed an official police checkpoint once during the ride to Cayenne and one girl got left behind there but that was because she was unable to show any identification. So just make sure you have your passport at hand, that you used an official border crossing and that you are using a registered taxi if you take a taxi and you should be fine.
Is Suriname safe to travel to?
I felt safe the entire time I was in Suriname, but I was also travelling with partially Surinamese family, so my experience might be different. I entered Suriname as a solo travelling female, but met my family within a few hours in Paramaribo. So best to check other sources for this one!
Are French Guiana and Suriname safe as a solo travelling female?
I travelled this route alone as a woman. I avoided river crossings after dark and took official crossings, which includes the ferry instead of the small wooden boats to cross the border from French Guiana to Suriname. But as always, situational awareness and trusting your intuition is key. In Suriname, I only travelled alone up to Paramaribo with a taxi and that ride, including the border crossing in Albina, went super smooth and I felt very comfortable. The rest of my trip I was with family, and with them I never felt unsafe.
Is French Guiana good for digital nomads?
In French Guiana, infrastructure is European-level, but accommodation is expensive and coworking culture is limited. My guess is that it may work for short stays rather than long-term remote work.
Final thoughts
French Guiana was not a destination I had planned my trip around, it was mostly a country to pass through on my journey to cross the Amazon overland without flying. It turned out to be more logistically complicated, slower, and more expensive than I expected, but also more interesting. The contrast between European systems and Amazon reality is tangible everywhere, and travelling through French Guiana definitely requires flexibility and patience.
Next time I go, I will definitely try to find a couchsurf host where I can stay a bit longer. This time, however, I had some time pressure I was on my way to see my family in Suriname... You can read about that in my upcoming blogpost – subscribe to my newsletter to stay updated!
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